How to Choose the Right OUMO Shaving Brush for You
Within the OUMO system, this guide is designed to help you find the shaving brush that best suits your needs. It is divided into two main sections: the Shaving Knot and the Brush Handle.
We have not offered a detailed buying guide in the past for a simple reason—we assumed that this hobby comes with a certain learning curve, and that most people would have done their research before stepping into the world of artisan-grade shaving brushes. Lately, however, more newcomers have been discovering this space, and when faced with a brand as diverse and system-driven as ours, it is easy to feel overwhelmed. So I believe the time has come to write this guide.
I am Carry. I have over a decade of wet-shaving experience, and I had been using shaving brushes long before OUMO was founded. Since 2015, I have personally used well over a thousand brushes. OUMO has also consistently gathered feedback from the global community. By combining that wealth of user input with my own hands-on experience, I hope to offer you a genuinely useful reference.
Throughout this article, I will do my best to keep the language straightforward and accessible.
Part One: Choosing Your Shaving Knot
We offer four types of shaving knots: Hog Badger, Dog Badger, Bristle, and Synthetic.
- Hog Badger: Generally offers strong backbone and balanced performance.
- Dog Badger: Softer overall, delivering a more luxurious feel.
- Bristle: More resilient, with greater precision and a friendlier price point.
- Synthetic: Easier to lather, simpler to maintain, nearly zero break-in required, long service life, and available in a range of tactile profiles—excellent value for money.
Start by deciding which category appeals to you, then go from there.
Different knot types offer very different experiences. Within OUMO's classification system, each type comes in multiple grades, largely determined by raw material tier. In simple terms, the price reflects the scarcity of the material—but more expensive does not automatically mean better for you.
A knot's character depends not only on its material grade, but just as much on how it is tuned during production: density, bleaching level, bleaching method, selection process, and so on. In fact, the craftsmanship often has a greater impact on the final feel, while the material grade defines the upper limit of what is possible.
Before We Begin: Understanding Our Sizing & LOFT
On Knot Size
Many people ask why our knot sizes changed from 22–24–26–28–30 mm to 21–23–25–27–29 mm.
Frankly, this is due to a common misunderstanding rooted in manufacturing differences. A hand-tied knot and a traditionally glued knot differ fundamentally in how they are measured. A hand-tied knot has only basic reinforcement at the base, while a traditional glued knot includes a glue base sized to match its nominal diameter. People habitually assume that the glue base's diameter represents the knot's size, overlooking the most critical factor—the actual volume of Badger hair.
In most cases, the hair alone cannot fill a full 28 mm at the base; it tends to measure 0.1–0.3 mm smaller. This is because Badger hair is thickest at the waist—the waist may reach 28 mm, but the base, being narrower, cannot. A hand-tied knot measures the pure hair bundle, not the diameter of a glue base.
To avoid unnecessary confusion, we have effectively downsized our nominal sizing by one step. A knot labeled 25 mm is, in real terms, extremely close to 26 mm.
On Handle Bore Size and Knot Size
For example, a handle designed for a 27 mm knot will have a bore of approximately 28.5–29 mm.
Why leave such a gap? First, it ensures the knot can be installed smoothly. But more importantly, shaving knots—especially dense Badger knots—expand when wet. The clearance allows for this natural expansion rather than suppressing it. This is a choice we have arrived at through extensive testing.
In fact, we have begun using funnel-shaped openings on certain handle designs—an angled upper section that better accommodates expansion pressure.
What if you insist on a zero-clearance fit? It is possible, and the performance loss is modest. But the real risk is that the expansion force could damage the handle. Do not underestimate the swelling pressure of a wet Badger knot—it can easily crack a thin-walled handle.
On LOFT
Wet shaving is a deeply personal hobby. What we refer to as the "standard LOFT" is essentially a reference point—a coordinate on the map, not an absolute "correct" value.
If you are new, starting with the default LOFT is perfectly fine. This standard is set based on two considerations: first, it allows the knot to express its full character; second, it is grounded in years of experience and current market preferences.
That said, I must emphasize again: this is a highly individual pursuit. There is no universal "best setting." The standard LOFT is designed to suit the majority. If you prefer a fluffier feel or a slightly softer backbone, you can increase the LOFT by up to 10% from our baseline. If the adjustment approaches the knot's structural limit, we will let you know immediately—and explain what you gain and what you lose. Small adjustments of 1–2 mm are perfectly safe.
A concrete example: the Emperor's LOFT is deliberately set low to solve a long-standing challenge with Silvertip knots—their typically weak backbone. But if you are a fan of the traditional Silvertip feel, this setting may not suit you. In that case, a 2–4 mm increase would be appropriate.
Also, once set, the LOFT is not permanently locked. We use a low-temperature silicone adhesive. Simply heat the glued area of the handle to around 90°C, and the knot can be gently removed and reset. This ability is important—finding your ideal LOFT is itself a meaningful part of the wet-shaving journey.
Hog Badger Knots in Detail
The Hog Badger category is our most extensive, including models such as the 5th, 7th, The Unsullied, Rorschach, ACE, Manchuria, Tyrant, Elixir, Epoch, Zhuque, and Origin.
We provide a specification table outlining the key measurable indicators, which are determined by a combination of tuning parameters. However, qualities like tactile feel and smoothness cannot be fully captured in a table. Each batch may vary slightly due to differences in origin and season. That said, the hard metrics are set through deliberate parameter tuning, so they remain consistent and reliable.
We divide Hog Badger knots into three broad tiers:
Daily Use: 5th, 7th, ACE, Manchuria
ACE and Manchuria are already capable of meeting the demands of even the most discerning users. They are well-balanced and our top recommendation for first-time buyers. Between the two, Manchuria uses a higher-grade material and delivers superior all-around performance.
The 5th and 7th offer exceptional value while still providing an entry point into high-end quality. If you want a knot you can use every day without hesitation, either of these is an excellent choice.
Luxury Collection: Tyrant, Zhuque, Origin
These three represent the pinnacle of what is currently available on the market, excelling in one or multiple areas.
The Tyrant is priced below the Zhuque and Origin, but this difference mainly reflects material rarity. Compared to the Manchuria, the Tyrant stands out in two ways: visually, it features striking white tips and a wide black band; in performance, the higher-grade material delivers greater resilience and a silkier feel. That said, the improvement over the Manchuria is incremental rather than dramatic. Its true value lies in collectability and longevity—the premium material yields thicker hairs and longer tips, requiring only minimal bleaching to unlock its potential.
The Zhuque and Origin sit at the top of OUMO's pricing structure. The Zhuque represents the ceiling for natural Hog Badger hair, while the Origin does the same for finest two-band. Both are made from the highest-grade Hog Badger hair—exceptionally long tips, remarkably wide black bands, and thick shafts—combined with OUMO's most meticulous selection process. They are designed to satisfy even the most demanding collector's pursuit of excellence.
Specialist Series: The Unsullied, Rorschach, Elixir, Epoch
The Unsullied is completely untreated natural Badger hair, offering a pronounced bristly feel. If you enjoy that kind of texture, it is an obvious choice. At the same time, its intact cuticle structure produces exceptionally creamy lather. Due to its material grade, it falls short of the Zhuque in softness and smoothness.
The Rorschach undergoes very light bleaching—just enough to remove the prickliness while preserving most of the raw texture. It is not as soft as a fully processed knot, nor does it have the strong grit of an untreated one. It suits those who appreciate a hint of natural feedback.
The Elixir pushes rebound to its limit. We select particularly thick hairs, use a lower density, and shape them into a more pronounced bulb profile to maximize spring-back. If you enjoy a sharp, linear snap, the Elixir is the one.
The Epoch is made from Xinjiang Tianshan Badger hair—an exceptionally rare material that combines the strengths of both Hog and Dog Badger hair, a direct result of the unique environment where these badgers live. If you want an untreated natural Badger knot that delivers both elasticity and softness simultaneously, the Epoch is the only choice.
To summarize: Hog Badger knots generally lead in overall capability. The various grades and tuning parameters are essentially about emphasizing specific traits or finding the right balance. These parameters are not fixed forever—we continuously refine them based on evolving preferences. For example, between 2016 and 2019, the trend favored dense, strong-backbone knots. As tastes shift, we adjust our offerings to stay aligned with what the community values.
Dog Badger Knots in Detail
Dog Badger knots are less varied than Hog Badger, mainly because Dog Badger hair is highly consistent in performance—which also means there is less room for differentiation. Simply put, Dog Badger hair offers less "playability."
We currently offer three models: Silk, Kirin, and Emperor.
Silk serves as the value leader in OUMO's Dog Badger lineup. It offers excellent affordability while still delivering the essence of a premium Dog Badger knot. Its main compromise is slightly lower rebound, but if you prefer a wider, mushroom-like splay, it is an ideal pick.
Emperor is the highest-grade Silvertip in OUMO's range, representing the traditional benchmark for luxury. It maintains a plush, indulgent feel while using premium materials and extreme density to provide a firm backbone.
Kirin is an untreated natural Dog Badger knot, made from the same material grade as the Emperor. It offers a more primitive texture—soft and smooth, with a subtle natural grittiness.
Dog Badger knots are closer to the classic image of a top-tier shaving brush: soft, smooth, and luxurious. While Hog Badger knots have gradually taken over the spotlight thanks to finer grading and more precise processing, the inherent silkiness of Dog Badger hair remains something Hog Badger can never replicate. That is simply a matter of genetic limitation.
Synthetic Knots in Detail
Beyond natural hair, we have invested heavily in synthetic fibers in recent years. Our Super Fiber series is the result—every knot in this line is developed from start to finish under our control: selecting the raw polymer pellets, designing the fiber structure, determining filament diameter, blending ratios, and color schemes. Unlike brands that simply buy whatever their supplier offers, we aim to build a synthetic series that is systematic, traceable, and capable of explaining exactly where its performance comes from.
We currently offer three models:
- ST-1: Strong backbone with a soft, slightly textured feel.
- ST-2: Cloud-like, ultra-soft touch, but with gentler rebound.
- ST-3: Combines high rebound with softness, featuring an entirely new fiber structure for the first time.
Note that the ST-1 and ST-3 are each available in two density options, while the ST-2, due to its specific material parameters, is offered only in its maximum-density configuration.
Part Two: Choosing Your Brush Handle
OUMO handles are broadly divided into three tiers: Standard, Master, and Limited (Flagship). Each tier includes a variety of shapes and material combinations, resulting in a large and diverse product family.
Standard
Most of our products fall into this category. Conventional resin handles, wood handles, aluminum, and multi-material hybrids are typical examples. These are designed for daily use, offering excellent value with prices generally ranging from $40 to $70.
Master
These incorporate more complex techniques or rarer materials—stabilized wood, ebonite, reconstituted turquoise, and finishes such as glaze, foil inlay, fluid art, or 5-axis carving. Prices range from $100 to $180, balancing everyday usability with collectability.
Limited (Flagship)
These represent OUMO's current technical ceiling. They use precious materials and advanced processes—bronze, titanium, limited-edition ebonite, Chinese lacquer, extreme 5-axis machining, and intricate multi-material assembly. They carry significant collectible value, with prices often exceeding $250 and sometimes reaching $300 or more.
For daily use, the Standard tier is more than sufficient—it already meets the benchmark for artisan-quality shaving brushes. The Master tier offers greater refinement in materials and craftsmanship, with some collectible appeal. The Limited tier showcases the very peak of OUMO's capabilities at the time of production, prioritizing collectability over practicality.
When choosing a handle, let your actual needs guide you. Please do not judge a Limited edition's ergonomics against the standards of a daily-use tool—they were designed with different intentions.
If you have had the patience to read through this entire guide, I am confident you will be able to find the shaving brush that is truly right for you.